My husband planted our tomatoes yesterday. Just it time. Tomatoes are, in my opinion, the most finicky of vegetables to grow in Tucson. They don’t like the cold and certainly don’t like our heat, so their season is short and requires timely planting.

Last year we got them planted by Valentine’s Day and it worked out perfectly. We received a wonderful batch of Champion tomatoes before the heat hit. But last year the weather cooperated with a Valentine’s planting. This year- not so much. Though I shouldn’t complain about receiving precipitation in the desert, the recent weather has made it difficult to predict when to plant tomatoes.

I am still apprehensive about this year’s weather. Seems we are in a pattern of warm, freezing, warm, freezing. But this is the chance we take with tomatoes in Tucson. Let’s just hope the heat doesn’t hit early!

by Cara Bohardt, Desert Gardener

What is your favorite tomato to grow in the desert?

When I first planted this barrel, it was an herb garden with pretty purple basil, purple sage, chives, Italian parsley and trailing rosemary. Well, several years later, everything is long gone, except the rosemary. This rosemary has survived several partners and will now have new company- more rosemary! I have planted three new Dwarf Rosemary.

All rosemary can be used in the kitchen, thrives in our full summer sun and tolerates freezing temperatures. Plants even lived through The Great Freeze of 2011. Rosemary is also a winter bloomer and is full of beautiful light blue flowers when most perennials are dormant.

Here at Harlow’s we have a class called Bulletproof Plants. This class highlights plants that can thrive in a variety of conditions and withstand some neglect. Though rosemary is not featured in this class, in my yard it has proven to be a bulletproof plant.

by Cara Bohardt, Desert Gardener

Do you have a favorite Bulletproof Plant?

My citrus fruit have begun to ripen. The mandarin tree looks beautiful with it’s bright orange fruit. It looks so pretty, I don’t want to pick them. But after a taste test, I think it is about time.

Before you pick a whole crop it is best to taste one or two to see if it is ready. Unlike other fruit, citrus do not ripen once picked.
Different citrus ripen at different times and can ripen over a long period of time. Click here to find out when to expect each fruit.

by Cara Bohardt, Desert Gardener
What is your favorite citrus fruit?

Mandarin Tree

SYMBOLISM AND MEANING OF ROSES

Since ancient times roses have been grown for their fragrance, beauty, and healing properties. Roses, with their unique combination of thorny stems and fragrant blossoms, are often prized a symbol of achievement, completion and perfection: After having met the long stems with the thorns, you are rewarded with a flower of great beauty and mesmerizing fragrance. In other words, roses act as a metaphor for life: After overcoming difficulty, you will find inner harmony, union, and happiness.

Roses are heavily symbolic, often used in heraldry, badges, and coats of arms. The War of the Roses was carried out between the House of York (whose heraldic badge bore a white rose) and the House of Lancaster (red rose). The use of the rose as a symbol for silence or secrecy goes back to the ancient Egyptians or Greeks, where initiates into the “mysteries,” or pre-Christian religions, wore roses during ceremonies to indicate that they would keep inviolate any secrets that were passed on to them. In many countries it was customary to hang a rose over secret meetings or gatherings—hence the term sub-rosa (literally “under the rose”) to mean confidential.

Meaning of Rose Colors
The color of a rose is also associated with symbolic meanings. Each rose color, and even the rose blossom shape and age (i.e. rose buds as opposed to fully bloomed roses), conveys a different meaning or silent message from the giver to the recipient.

• The red rose symbolizes romance, love, beauty, and courage. A red rosebud signifies beauty and purity. A thornless red rose means love at first sight.
• Yellow roses symbolize friendship and joy, and new beginnings.
• Orange roses symbolize fascination, desire, and sensuality.
• Pink roses indicate appreciation and gratitude, especially dark pink roses. Light pink roses are usually indicative of admiration and/or sympathy.
• The white rose stands for innocence and purity; also silence, secrecy, and reverence. White rosebuds are symbolic of girlhood. Brides often select white roses for their bridal bouquets.

Reprinted from www.rose-garden-online.com
1/6/04

Harlow Gardens
5620 E. Pima Street
Tucson, AZ  85712

My poor Fan-Tex Ash tree. It is sapping all over, and it can only mean one thing– borers. Ash trees can be susceptible to these insects. By keeping the tree well watered and fed, you should be able to keep bugs at bay.

Unfortunately, my irrigation system has been watering too close to the trunk and not at the edge of the canopy, the drip line. If you think of a tree’s canopy as an umbrella, the drip line is the outside boundary where the water would run off. The majority of water gathering roots are located under the drip line.

I have plans to change this and redistribute the water, but obviously did not get to it soon enough. I could tell the tree got quite stressed during the hot summer.

Now, I’ve got to kill the borers before they kill my tree. Like it or not, I have to use a systemic insecticide. A systemic penetrates all parts of the plant with poison. Since borers reside and feed inside the tree, there is no other way to kill them. Contact killers cannot physically hit the borer and therefore are useless against them. I use organic pesticides whenever possible. It pains me to use this poison, but it’s a necessary evil if I want to keep my 8 year old tree.

With borers, a year-long systemic is the most effective. I will use Monterey’s Once a Year Insect Control. This is the second time in the tree’s life I’ve had to treat it. Hopefully, with redistributing the water, it will be the last time I have to use this poison.

By Cara Bohardt, Desert Gardener

What is your experience with borers?

Drip Line

Borer Damage

SHADE SURVIVORS

We all like to hide in shady places here in the desert.  But what to plant in them when we find them is challenging to say the least.  The number of plant types that will work in shady spots is limited, and it is next to impossible to find anything that will grow in deep shade.  Most plants need some light to survive.  Blooming plants will need a little direct sun.  Below is a list of plants that tolerate the shade.

Flowering Annuals(seasonal)

• Begonia (summer)
• Cyclamen (winter)
• Impatiens (summer)
• Primrose (winter)

Foliage Annuals(seasonal)

• Caladium (winter)
• Coleus (summer)
• Splash (summer)

Perennials(year-long)

• Campanula
• Crossandra
• Cyperus
• Fern
• Heuchera
• Liriope
• Most Succulents
• Plectranthus
• Purple Heart
• Torenia
• True Geraniums
• Torenia

Shrubs

• Acanthus
• Aspidistra
• Azalea
• Boxwood
• Brunfelsia
• Camellia
• Euonymus
• Gardenia
• Indian Hawthorne
• Jasmine
• Moraea
• Philodendron
• Pittosporum
• Podocarpus
• Sago
• Viburnum

Vines

• Creeping Fig
• Ivy
• Pink Jasmine
• Star Jasmine

Groundcover

• Aptenia
• Ivy
• Star Jasmine
• Vinca major and minor

Irrigating plants in shady areas should be done infrequently, even in summer.  The plants want to dry in between waterings, so check them before you water.

Keep in mind variegated plants really help to brighten a dark spot.  You can also use brightly-colored containers or a piece of colorful artwork.

Harlow Gardens
5620 E. Pima Street
Tucson, AZ 85712
(520)298-3303

FABULOUSLY FRAGRANT SWEET PEAS

For so many of us the divine fragrance of Sweet Peas triggers wonderful memories of time spent in the garden as children.  Maybe your grandma grew them or a beloved aunt or uncle.  Either way, Sweet Peas smell just like love.

In Tucson the best time to plant Sweet Peas is at the end of September or the beginning of October, depending upon how hot it is.  Wait until the daytime temperatures have dropped into the mid-90’s.  Even though Sweet Peas are planted in the fall, they will not bloom until spring.  Depending upon variety and weather, they may begin to bloom as early as February.  One good way to help extend their bloom in the spring is to plant them in a spot that gets afternoon shade.  (By the way, the seedlings don’t need covering during a normal Tucson winter.)

There are basically 3 types of Sweet Peas you can grow.  The shortest grows to only 8 or 10 inches and is great in a hanging basket.  The second is a dwarf climber that grows to about 3 feet which also makes it good to grow in a pot.  The last type is your tall garden variety that will reach to about 5 feet tall and need support.

One of the challenges with Sweet Peas is breaking through the hard outer shell of the seed so germination can happen.  One method that we have found successful starts with a plastic container that has a tight fitting lid.  Fold 2 paper towels so that they cover the bottom of the container.  Place your seeds on top of the flat paper towels and add water to the container.  The water level should only come halfway up the seed.  You don’t need to cover the seed with water.  Put the lid on the container, making sure it has a tight fit.  Leave the seeds in the container for approximately 24 hours.  When you uncover the container the following day you will notice that some seeds have swelled, absorbing water.  These seeds are ready to plant.  You will find that some seeds in your container did not swell and will either need more time in the container or they may need to be ‘nicked’ and returned to the container overnight.

For planting in a container use a rich, well-draining, potting soil such as Black Gold.  When planting, place 3 seeds together every 6 inches.

Before planting in your garden, it is best to add mulch to your existing soil.  Your final planting bed should consist of ½ mulch and ½ existing soil with this soft mixture being about 12 inches deep.

Sweet Peas need to be buried about 1 inch deep, whether in a pot or in the ground.  Water your seeds every day until the weather cools.  As temperatures cool, check the soil to make sure it is not still wet before watering again.

In the spring your Sweet Peas will give you more bloom if you cut blooms regularly.  Then fill your home with the fabulous fragrance and color of Sweet Peas.

Your grandma will be proud.

Harlow Gardens
5620 E. Pima Street
Tucson, AZ 85712
(520)298-3303

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES

Ornamental grasses are a terrific addition to any desert garden.  They soften the landscape, have interesting seed heads, and can have subtle seasonal color changes.  In addition, many of the grasses are very drought tolerant once established.

Before planting, be sure to understand the growth habit of the grass you have chosen for your garden.  Grasses can be either clump forming or rhizome forming.  The clumping grasses will grow in very nice, neat mounds or clumps.  The rhizome-forming grasses spread by underground stems and can become very invasive.

One of the clear advantages of the grasses is that they require little care.  They are not picky about soil types as long as the drainage is adequate.  Once established they require a regular deep watering during the Summer to maintain a lush green color, and occasional deep watering in the Winter.  Periodic applications of nitrogen during active Spring growth will enhance color and size.  Low rates of application are preferred.  Most grasses should be cut back to about 4 to 6 inches in late Winter or early Spring.  This will stimulate development of new grass blades and freshen the look of the plant.

Listed below are grasses that do very well in our area.

1. Purple Fountain Grass (Pennisetum rubrum) – Native to tropical Africa, Southwest Asia, and Arabian peninsula.  Purplish blades are topped by creamy flower spikes Summer through Fall.  Thrives in full sun.  It will grow to be 5 feet tall and wide, although there is a dwarf variety called “Red Riding Hood” which is particularly nice when grown in a pot or as part of a color bowl.  Hardy to 0 degrees.

 

2. Regal Mist (Muhlenbergia capillaris) – Native to the Southern United States all the way up to Kansas and east to Massachusetts.  Green blades are topped by wispy pink flower panicles in Fall.  It is particularly lovely when backlit at sunrise or sunset.  Full sun or part shade.  Grows to about 3 feet tall and wide.  Hardy to 0 degrees.

 

3. Deer Grass (Muhlenbergia rigens) – Native to California, Texas, and south into Mexico.  Gray-green blades grow to 4 feet tall and wide.  Slender cream-colored flower spikes appear in Fall. Will grow in full sun or part shade.  Hardy to 0 degrees.

 

4. Mexican Feather Grass (Stipa or nassella tenuissima) – Native to Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico.  Among the finest textured of all ornamental grasses.  Produces a thin flower stem that arches downward, ending in a cloud of silvery green awns.  Will take full sun or part shade.  Matures at 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide. Hardy to –10 degrees.

 

5. Bear Grass (Nolina microcarpa) – Native to Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, California, and Mexico.  Has greenish-white flower stalks in Spring.  Radical pruning should not be done on this grass.  Just remove the bottom leaves as they brown.  Will grow to be 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide at full maturity.  Will take full sun.  Hardy to 15 degrees.

 

6. Japanese Blood Grass (Imperata cylindrica rubra) – Native to Japan.  The leaves emerge green at the base and red at the tips.  This grass rarely flowers. Forms a 1- to 2-foot clump.  Hardy to 0 degrees.

 

7. Leather Leaf Sedge (Carex buchananii) – Native to New Zealand.  Will grow to 3 feet tall and wide with erect reddish-bronze blades.  Will need regular, deep waterings, and would appreciate some afternoon shade.  Hardy to 15 degrees.

 

8. Lily Turf (Liriope) – Native to Asia.  Grows 1 to 2 feet tall with lavender to blue flower spikes in late Spring or early Summer.  Needs filtered sun or full shade.  Hardy to 0 degrees.

 

9. Sweet Flag (Acorus) – Found throughout the Northern Hemisphere.  This is a bog or aquatic plant that can be used successfully in color bowls as an accent grass.  Japanese Sweet Flag grows 6 to12 inches, ranges from yellow to green, and is variegated.  Hardy to 0 degrees.

 

10. Ribbon Grass (Phalaris arundinacea picta) – Native to North America and Eurasia.  Forms a 2- to 3-foot clump of variegated green and white leaves.  Can be used as a bog plant, but is best planted where its aggressive growth can be controlled.  Hardy to –10 degrees.  “Strawberries and Cream” is a nice variety growing 1- to 2-feet tall, taking on a pink tinge in cooler weather.

 

Harlow Gardens
5620 E. Pima Street
Tucson, AZ 85712
(520)298-3303

ORGANIC FERTILIZERS AND PESTICIDES

In recent years the environment has been a hot topic for debate.  It is clear the majority of people are concerned not only about their own health but also the health of the earth we are leaving to our children and grandchildren.

In some instances the effect of overusing chemicals is clear.  There have been documented cases where a whole lake full of fish have died because of chemicals leeching into the lake or the depletion of our ozone, or the coral reefs dying out because of the chemicals in sunscreen and what we are dumping in both our soil and in our waterways.  Many businesses are changing what they are putting in their products, how they are disposing of it.

“Organic,” simply put, means naturally occurring substances that are not altered.  For example, fertilizers would include things like bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, chicken poop, etc.  Fungicides and pesticides would include essential oils such as thyme oil, neem oil, sesame oils, etc. and pyrethrins (extract from chrysanthemum flowers).  Bear in mind that not many products will be 100% organic.

The benefits of organics far outweigh the benefits of the synthetic (man-made) products.  Other than the obvious kindness to our environment, organic fertilizers continue to build up and enrich our soils.  They generally will last longer and therefore you would feed less.  A granular organic fertilizer usually lasts about six (6) weeks compared to synthetic fertilizer which lasts approximately four (4) weeks.  Moreover, a synthetic fertilizer will start to kill off the micro-organisms in the soil over a period of time.  Why are micro-organisms important?  Because they help decompose organic matter, replenish soil nutrients, promote root growth, increase nutrient uptake, and break down herbicides and pesticides.

Below is a list of organic products and their uses:

Fertilizers

• Fox Farm Happy Frog, Fox Farm Peace of Mind, and Grow More:  used for flowers and veggies; basically “all purpose.”
• Bat Guano (phosphorus) and Bone Meal (phosphorus):  used for bulbs and flowers.
• Blood Meal:  used for leafy veggies; can be mixed with Bone Meal.
• Seaweed Extract:  used for Bonsai and houseplants.
• Fish Emulsion:  used for Bonsai, veggies, and houseplants.

Pesticides – Used as contact killers on aphids, scale, whitefly, gnats, etc.

• All Natural Mite & Insect Control
• Take Down
• Grub Beater (for grubs)

Fungicides – Used on powdery mildew, blights, and leaf spots.

• Copper Soap
• Copper Fungicide (powder)
• Triple Action Plus

Weed and Grass Killers – Used as contact killer on weeds and grasses.

• Burn Out II

Harlow Gardens
5620 E. Pima Street
Tucson, AZ 85712
(520)298-3303